Expat Chronicles: European Cities, Ranked

We’re in packing mode here in London, stuffing books and clothes and keepsakes and whatnot into boxes to be shipped across the Atlantic to the United States, where we will resettle in late July after five-and-a-half years living the expat life.

As these things go, it’s not too stressful. There’s hardly any furniture to be shipped over. No large appliances. No kitchen stuff. Those items all came with our apartment here, and we will leave them merrily behind. What we won’t be leaving behind are our memories of this cosmic adventure, and the experiences we collected along the way. Those, we’ll be toting along with us.

A future blog will take a deeper dive into my feelings about bidding the UK farewell. This blog is a public service of sorts, for all you folks who might one day like to take an extended visit to this part of the world. Today I offer our perspective on how European cities rank according to our own subjective criteria.

The thing I’ll probably miss most about the UK – besides the fact that there are not more guns than people, like in the USA – is the quick and easy access to Europe. Our family has visited 16 countries in Europe since moving here (outside of England), and maybe 20 cities.

As I’ve mentioned before in this space, visiting Europe is like stepping onto a movie set. Just about every city is overflowing with picture-postcard scenery and impossible charm. The streets are a feast of gorgeous architecture and bustling energy. The food is wunderbar. The vibe is intoxicating.

One reason I’ve stayed with this blog all these years is to record our lives in London, so one day many years from now I and others can re-read the various “Expat Chronicles” installments and relive what it was like. I’ve written often about our travels in and around Europe. Those travels are coming to an end now because we need to save money for the move back home.

So, now I’ll take a look back at the European cities I have visited, mostly with the whole family, and once with just Susan (Amsterdam). Susan and the girls visited two cities that I did not: Bruges, Belgium; and Athens, Greece.

Following is a ranking of the 15 European cities I’ve personally visited. The list doesn’t include London or other English towns, though it does include cities in Scotland and Northern Ireland. I figured when you live in a country, you have a different, non-tourist perspective. It also doesn’t include Marrakesh, Morocco, which we also visited – and which I would recommend – but is not located in Europe.

So, about the list…

*****

I originally was going to rank the cities on the fly, based on my own personal preferences. But then I wasn’t sure I trusted my memory. I decided to rank each city according to 11 different categories. The idea was to jog my memory, jog my recollections of what other family members said, and provide a more rounded view for travelers who might like an idea of where they should go.

Susan helped me with some of the categories. Others were based on my own experience as well as the experiences of the rest of the family. The categories are as follows:

• Food
• Arts/Culture
• Walkability
• Vibe
• Shopping
• Ability to get by with English
• Family friendliness
• Physical beauty (geography + architecture + urban design)
• Outdoor activities
• Affordability
• Friendliness/Service

If you want to skip ahead to the rankings, feel free. For now, a quick word about the categories…

Most are self-explanatory, though I should probably explain what I mean by “vibe.” It’s a combination of things, mostly to do with the energy a city emits – its “buzz,” maybe you’d call it. Some cities just put out a positive, upbeat energy that’s not easy to describe but is instantly recognizable. Amsterdam and Copenhagen come immediately to mind. There’s just something fun and uplifting about walking around those cities, and the way they embrace you. In contrast, Milan did not put out a welcoming vibe. I’m not sure how to explain it, other than I always had the feeling I was invading someone else’s dream, and they had just stubbed their toe against a brick.

“Walkability” is very important to me when visiting cities. If I can use my own two feet to get everywhere, I am one happy tourist. Some cities scored comparatively low simply because of their size (Paris, Barcelona, Munich), even though they were great to walk around in. Smaller, denser cities have a built-in advantage in this category (Lisbon, Amsterdam, Edinburgh, Copenhagen).

The ability to speak English was a category I had second thoughts about, mainly because the list includes two Scottish cities and one in Northern Ireland, where English is the official language, giving them an unfair advantage. But it’s still an important consideration when traveling around Europe as someone from an English-speaking country. And to be honest, I had an easier time understanding the English in Holland, Denmark, and Belgium than I did in certain parts of Scotland and Northern Ireland.

I had Susan do the shopping ranking because the only thing I shop for while traveling are books, the occasional piece of clothing, and souvenirs (I collect souvenir refrigerator magnets – don’t judge). Here are her comments about shopping in Europe:

While I enjoy wandering streets and large department stores with exclusive names, I’m really a sucker for vintage shopping, independent shops, and boutiques. Also, I love when cities reflect a creative community. You can tell by how many knitting shops, bead shops and fabric shops there are, and where they are located.  Does a city support local creators?  It’s a plus if they do — like Barcelona.

It’s fun to get lost in a home goods store. Since I’m not able to wander into anyone’s home, these stores give a little bit of a clue as to how folks might arrange their interiors. For beautiful aesthetic interior shops: Copenhagen.

Overall I would rank highest for variety. Does it have something for everyone — my girlfriends who love fashion? – whether known brands or independent; vintage and preloved shops; endless jewelry and handbag choices; home goods and small art galleries; or fabrics and yarns. What one place would I recommend for all of these? Paris. 

(Blogger’s note: I would have guessed Paris! Yay me!)

For the food category, I used my own experiences as well as those of the rest of the family. Our oldest daughter is a genuine foodie, and she likes sharing her dining experiences in different places. Susan does as well. Our youngest daughter is a gourmand when it comes to burgers and sweets, so I took that into consideration as well. (Paris and Brussels score VERY high on sweets).

In terms of “Outdoor Activities,” I mainly considered whether there are good places to hike (Edinburgh), access to boat outings (Amsterdam, Vienna), availability of green spaces (Vienna, Munich), or places to chill by a beach or waterfront (Lisbon, Barcelona).

All cities were ranked from 1 to 15 by category, with 1 being the best and 15 coming in last. Consequently, the cities with the lowest combined scores came out on top.

A quick note: These are all amazing cities in their own way, so the list is not “best to worst,” but “best to least best,” as seen through my eyes. I would highly recommend visiting each of them if you get a chance.

Now, on to the scorecard! Some of the following descriptions borrow from earlier blogs, though I did add some context on why they ranked the way they did.

1. Copenhagen

The Danish capital scored high in everything but outdoor activities, because I don’t remember a ton of green spaces. It ranked in the top 3 in seven categories: food, walkability, vibe, shopping, English, family friendly, and friendliness/service. Copenhagen is just a very pleasant and pretty city with lots to do, excellent food, plenty of kid stuff (Denmark is the Lego capital of the world), and cool jazz clubs. There is also a relaxed, friendly vibe that makes you feel like you’re at home, even though it’s your first visit.

2. Edinburgh

Edinburgh is one of those cities that scores high in just about every category. It ranked first in outdoor activities because you can easily walk from the city center to Arthur’s Seat, a small mountain with hiking trails that gives you a wide view of the city and seaside. There are GREAT bookstores in Edinburgh, a cool castle, a surprisingly good Mexican restaurant, some hip neighborhoods, a few very noir-looking streets, and a lovely park. Everyone seems nice, like they’re just happy to be alive and in Edinburgh. This was our first COVID-era trip, which we squeezed in during a temporary lockdown hiatus.

3. Vienna

I might never have imagined this before visiting Vienna, but for me, it ranked first in food. Vienna has no less than three outstanding native dishes – goulash, wiener schnitzel and sausages – plus we had a nice sushi meal. There are distinct neighborhoods, beautiful architecture, loads of museums, and plenty of green spaces. The hotel we stayed at was near a couple of small parks, which enhanced the experience for me, because I do loves the parks. A word of caution, though: Vienna is veeeryyyyy expensive.

4. Paris

Okay, Paris is spectacular, right? Just ask anyone who’s been there. It’s a gorgeous and romantic city with breathtaking views, excellent museums, lots to see and do, diverse neighborhoods, and an addictive energy. There are few pleasures in life greater than walking along the Seine at night. It’s a very big city that does not necessarily overwhelm you like New York or London. There’s still a bohemian ambience in many parts of town. Plus: It’s a jazz mecca. In terms of sheer grandeur, it’s hard to beat Paris. But in terms of value and experiences for a family of four, it ranks behind other cities.

5. Amsterdam

The scoring system ranked Amsterdam fifth, but it’s probably my personal favorite of all the European cities we visited. Some cities just check the right boxes, and this is one of them. There’s a bar on every corner – and four or five in between. You can walk everywhere (and I mean everywhere) without running out of things to see or do. The museums are excellent, the people are friendly, the food is diverse enough so you have plenty of choices, the vibe and energy are addictive, and for a little break, you can take a gondola ride down the canal. Plus: It’s a jazz mecca.

6. Prague

In terms of sheer beauty, it’s hard to beat Prague. The place is just stunning in every direction. It’s affordable, which makes it a good family destination – but also parties hard, which makes it a good singles destination. There is a mad energy and frenetic pace in the center city – along with a major beer and cannabis culture that attracts young folks from around the world – and finding a place to chill out isn’t always easy. But we did manage to find a nice riverside park that was relaxing. We also found a very good Mexican restaurant (go figger).

7. Lisbon

This is another city with brilliant views, a warm and friendly vibe, a very walkable center city, good food, interesting neighborhoods – and the added bonus of a beach nearby (plus warm temps when we visited in February 2020, just before COVID hit). I enjoyed its narrow streets and diverse shops, along with the steady hum of music you hear (we caught a very good blues band one night). One of Lisbon’s greatest strengths is that it’s cheap compared with other European cities. We paid less than 200 euros a night for a beautiful 2BR/2BA apartment in the heart of the Chiado, which is maybe Lisbon’s most happening neighborhood.

8. Brussels

This was the first European city we visited when we moved here in 2018, so it holds a special place in that regard. I’ll be honest: I didn’t think Brussels would rank this high – but the numbers don’t lie! It scored high in the shopping and family categories (the mini-Europe amusement park is a must for families), and it’s a very walkable city with good restaurants, a chill vibe, and many landmarks.

9. Barcelona

This beautiful seaside Spanish city ranked high in food, arts/culture, shopping, and outdoor activities (there’s a beach and nearby foothills). I actually think our family would rank it higher — but the numbers don’t lie! Barcelona is not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, which hurt its score, and you really need to use transit to see all of it. English is not as common here as other places (luckily I speak just enough Spanish to muddle through with the bare essentials). Some of our best meals were in Barcelona (roast pig, paella). There’s tons to do, and one of the coolest experiences is visiting the Picasso Museum located down a little non-descript alley in a mostly residential neighborhood.

10. Belfast

We took a short trip to Belfast in 2021, during a break in the COVID lockdown that coincided with a holiday weekend, so the natives were in a festive mood. Its ranking got a huge lift by being the most affordable city we visited, and probably the friendliest (the Northern Irish are very friendly people). That helped it overcome low scores in shopping and beauty – though, truth be told, I did find a certain beauty in its urban grittiness. One of the highlights was eating at Bert’s Jazz Bar, a decidedly old-school place with red leather dining booths, white linens, and excellent food in the steak/seafood/soup vein. There is also a very cool interactive Titanic museum, because the ship was built there.

11. Zurich

Zurich might be the most physically beautiful city on this list (or Paris, or Prague, or Barcelona) – but it’s unquestionably the most expensive. You literally can’t get a cheap meal in this place, even at a basic burger joint. Before Zurich, I thought Hawaii was the most expensive place we’ve ever visited – but at least Hawaii has an excuse, being an island stuck way out in the Pacific, which drives up supply-chain costs. I probably liked Zurich better than the others, mainly because you can walk along the canal and see lots of pretty stuff. (Note: the above photo was taken while riding the train into Zurich from Strasbourg. We don’t seem to have many photos of Zurich proper that don’t involve family).

12. Munich

We hit Munich last summer during the last leg of a three-city swing that also included Vienna and Prague, which did poor Munich no favors, because it simply could not match up with those two brilliant cities. The architecture and streetscapes in Munich are humdrum in comparison – nothing to be ashamed of, considering that almost everywhere is humdrum in comparison. I guess there’s nothing much about Munich that stands out for me. There’s shopping aplenty, and some open-air markets where you can buy food and souvenirs. On the bright side, we did eat some good food in Munich, saw an interesting exhibit on the tragic 1972 Munich Olympics, and caught an excellent violin-and-piano performance in a lovely park.

13. Strasbourg

Strasbourg is a French city located on the France-Germany border, and in many ways it’s as much German as it is French. It’s very walkable and affordable, and there were some cool little shops. The main thing I remember is our oldest daughter getting stung by a bee, and this she did not like at all (this was five years ago, when she was 9). I’m pretty sure I enjoyed one or more of the bars. We were only there for a couple nights, and memories are hazy.

14. Glasgow

Glasgow had the misfortune of being the second leg of an Edinburgh-Glasgow trip, and Edinburgh is a hard act to follow. From an earlier blog: Glasgow is more business-oriented than Edinburgh, and less interesting. More chain stores; less charm. More upscale chain restaurants; fewer interesting independent joints. Not much green space where we were. Nothing outdoorsy to do. We did eat at an Italian place called Sugo that served some of the best homemade pasta and sauce you’ll ever eat. Also, I chilled out in a great, divey little bar called Tabac for an hour or so while the rest of the family shopped, and it was one of my great bar experiences in Europe.

15. Milan

Decent scores for shopping and arts/culture, poor scores in affordability and friendliness (The Milanese don’t like you. Get used to it). From an earlier blog post: Milan has a nice central plaza and some cool street entertainment. We enjoyed visiting the Da Vinci Science and Technology Museum as well as an old castle and nearby park. But the food was nothing special (yes, you CAN get average pizza in Italy), and I just wasn’t feeling the vibe at any of the bars except for one cool hotel lounge. Many of the workers in Milan seem to be annoyed that you’re even alive, breathing the oxygen, much less asking for help.

*****

Scorecard

In case you were wondering how certain cities ranked by category, here’s a look at the top 5 per category as well as the city that brought up the rear. This will push my blog into never-before-seen heights of length and word count, but that’s fine. Maybe I’ll turn it into a mini-book and sell it on TikTok, posing as a hip young world traveler. Or not…

Again, just because a city came in last doesn’t mean it’s not good in the category. It’s simply not as good as the others, according to my memory. So please, citizens of these fine cities – don’t flood my inbox with insults. I love your city!!

Food

1. Vienna

2. Barcelona

3. Copenhagen

4. Lisbon

5. Paris

Dead last: Belfast

Arts/Culture

1. Paris

2. Vienna

3. Amsterdam

4. Barcelona

5. Munich

Dead last: Strasbourg

Walkability

1. Amsterdam

2. Copenhagen

3. Edinburgh

4. Vienna

5. Lisbon

Dead last: Milan (we did walk everywhere, but we were in a tourist district, and to get anywhere else you needed transit, I am told)

Vibe

1. Amsterdam

2. Paris

3. Copenhagen

4. Vienna

5. Edinburgh

Dead last: Milan

Shopping

1. Paris

2. Barcelona

3. Copenhagen

4. Brussels

5. Milan

Dead last: Belfast

English (you can easily understand)

1. Amsterdam

2. Copenhagen

3. Edinburgh (obviously)

4. Glasgow (ditto)

5. Belfast (ditto)

Dead last: Milan (I swear, some pretended not to speak English even if they could)

Family Things to Do

1. Brussels (mini-Europe!)

2. Copenhagen (Legos!)

3. Lisbon (Beaches!)

4. Prague (game arcade, kid stores)

5. Edinburgh (castles, mountain hikes)

Dead last: Zurich

Beautiful Scenery and Streetscapes

1. Paris

2. Prague

3. Zurich

4. Barcelona

5. Edinburgh

Dead last: Glasgow

Outdoor Activities

1. Edinburgh

2. Lisbon

3. Barcelona

4. Vienna (mainly because of some nearby parks)

5. Belfast

Dead last: Glasgow (at least in the part of town we stayed)

Affordability

1. Belfast

2. Prague

3. Lisbon

4. Glasgow (I think)

5. Strasbourg

Dead last: Zurich

Friendly Natives, Businesses

1. Belfast

2. Copenhagen

3. Amsterdam

4. Edinburgh

5. Prague

Dead last: Milan (oof)

Endnote: Most of the photos were taken by Susan, though I took a few of them.